Cheap Guitars

Archive for the ‘Guitar Accessories’ Category

Guitar Effects Pedals Vs. Rack Mount Processors

Author: Richard Brodsky

If you play electric guitar or even if you’re just a fan, you’ve undoubtedly asked yourself how your favorite artist gets ‘that sound’ on one of your favorite tunes.

There is a dizzying array of guitar effects processors available these days and finding the right combination of guitar effects pedals and rackmount gear can be a daunting task that requires a certain amount of experimentation before finding the combination that works best for you.

Larger touring rock bands often have racks full of processors and a stage littered with pedals to switch between effects patches. Still, many musicians have found the old-style stompbox guitar pedals to offer the best bang for the buck. Although digital multi-effects processors offer some distinct convenient advantages, allowing guitar players to build combinations of effects -i.e. Chorus + Delay + Reverb + Distortion – into patches and banks for easy recall and switching later, there are some drawbacks to this approach as well. The combination of effects that’s written to a patch ad the associated parameters (amount of delay, reverb decay etc.), generally can not be changed on the fly. In addition, when switching between effects in a live gig situation, oftentimes there is a slight sound dropout which makes it impractical to use while sustaining a long chord for instance.

The stompbox guitar effects pedal set up, however provides much greater flexibility, allowing the guitar player to switch on and off individual effects at will. In addition, many guitar players prefer the ‘warmer’ tone provided by some of the older analog effects pedals. For convenience, you can purchase a pedalboard style case that will allow you to keep standard sized stompboxes connected together, so you don’t need to continuously reconnect everything each time you play. Many of these pedalboards also provide power supplies to connect all guitar effects pedals to, so that batteries don’t need to be constantly changed.

In the end, the best way to find what works for you is to experiment. Individual guitar effects pedals, multi-effects pedals and rackmount processors, along with various midi switching devices can be bought fairly inexpensively on sites like Ebay, if you take the time to look around and do your homework. If you find something that doesn’t work for you or your setup, you can always find someone who will be willing to buy it from you.

Richard Brodsky has been playing guitar since the 1970′s. He knows the best place to buy guitar effects pedals is http://www.myguitareffects.com

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/music-articles/guitar-effects-pedals-vs-rack-mount-processors-420950.html

About the Author

Richard Brodsky has been playing guitar since the 1970′s. He knows the best place to buy guitar effects pedals is http://www.myguitareffects.com

Guitar Effects Pedals: 5 Pedals Everyone Should Own

Author: David Wilson

So, you’ve got your guitar rig, amp, and some skills under your belt. You’re looking to spice up your sound a bit with some effects, but you’re not sure what kind to get, what they do, or anything else about them for that matter. Not to worry, choosing pedals is relatively simple. There are only a few major types, and though you can get many others kinds, keeping things simple is usually the best approach. In this article, I will outline the different types of pedals available, what you can expect from them, and how to choose the best model.

First and foremost, a gooding tuner pedal is an essential accessory for any gigging musician. Sure, you might be able to tune by ear just fine under normal circumstances, but things might get a bit harder on a noisy stage. A tuner pedal cuts off the signal from your guitar (so your audience doesn’t have to hear the tuning process), and gives you visual indicators as you tune your string, allowing you to keep in perfect tune even in the most difficult of conditions. Though this isn’t an “effects pedal,” its such a key item that I still needed to mention it.

A reverb pedal is perhaps one of the best basic pedals you can get. Unless you’re fortunate enough to own an amp with high quality built in reverb, you probably don’t have a really good reverb sound available. Reverb adds a lot of depth and atmosphere to a piece of music. Of course, like many effects, it can be easily over used, but in moderation it is excellent. There are many types of reverb, ranging from high tech digital designs to really basic technologies. One of the most sought after reverb types is modeled after the spring reverb found in early Fender amplifiers. These are expensive, but they do give a very lovely vintage tone. If you’re interested in a reverb unit, be sure to listen (and play through, if possible) each pedal to see if it has a sound that suites you well.

The most commonly desired pedal by many players is the distortion pedal. A distortion pedals, as its name implies, distorts the signal from your guitar to give a distinctive sound. Of course, there are many ways of accomplishing this distortion, so every pedal has its own unique sound. It’s hard to give general guidelines for choosing a distortion pedal, since every one is completely different, but you should definitely make sure that your pedal does not sound too harsh. This harshness is a common flaw with cheaper or lower quality distortion pedals, so try to buy quality.

Another essential pedal is the delay pedal. A delay pedals plays back your guitar sample in a loop, with a given decay. It’s a little hard to explain, but if you listen to almost all songs by U2, or “Run Like Hell” by Pink Floyd, you’ll hear the effect clearly. It’s a fairly complicated effect and requires precise timing to get the repeated loops to sound in rhythm, but the final effect is worth it. Definitely a pedal to check out. One of the most important aspects of choosing the delay pedal is that it has intuitive controls. You don’t want to be fussing around with a bunch of fiddly controls on stage.

For the final pedal, I recommend getting whatever you want. This may seem like a copout on my part, but I can’t speak at all to your personal sound and style. If you’re going for a trippy sound, try a flanger. If you need a wah pedal, by all means get one. The point is, sound is very personal, and nobody else can tell you what to get. Shop around, play around, and you’re sure to get the pedal board of your dreams.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/music-articles/guitar-effects-pedals-5-pedals-everyone-should-own-449354.html

About the Author

David Wilson is a musician and webmaster. He encourages you strongly to visit Guitar Effects Pedals to get great deals on guitar effects pedals, as well as read some more articles on the subject.

Guitar Gift Ideas: Are Beginner Guitar Packages Worth It?

Author: John Mackinnon

So your favorite guitar player wanna-be has asked for a new guitar and you aren’t sure exactly what to do. This article will discuss the pros and cons of buying beginner guitars that are bundled with all of the equipment needed to get started.

Electric Guitars Bundles For Beginners: ($150 – $350) These are designed to supply a rank beginner with all of the items they will need to get started in learning to play the electric guitar. These kits generally include the guitar, amplifier, guitar-to-amp cord, padded guitar bag, a tuner, strings, strap to support the guitar while standing, picks (plectrums), instruction book and or a limited set of beginner lessons on dvd.

The guitars in these bundles are usually very low end versions of some of the famous classic designs like the Gibson Les Paul or Fender Stratocaster for example. These guitars look great and are fun but, are not designed to last a long time. Also, they do not have many of the adjustments that more expensive guitars have which means that they can be difficult to keep in tune.

One major word of caution is to not purchase a kit that has a guitar with a Wammy Bar (also referred to as a Vibrato Bar). This Bar is located low on the body of the guitar and is used to loosen all 6 strings at once then theoretically return them back to their original tension while strumming. This raises and lowers the pitch of all the strings simultaneously and produces a great effect.

The problem with a low end guitar model is that just one touch of the Wammy Bar and the guitar is completely out of tune and unplayable. This an obvious problem while in the middle of a song because it becomes necessarily to stop and re-tune before continuing the song. More expensive guitars have complete string locking systems built right for preventing this problem.

Acoustic Guitar Bundles For Beginners: ( $100-$250) These bundles are usually less expensive than their electric guitar cousins because they do not require an amplifier. Again, these are low grade models that will not sound nearly as good as more expensive guitars but can be passable for learning. Guitars that cost about $200 and up by themselves are usually much better sounding guitars for beginners.

Acoustic Guitar Humidifiers: ($10-$20) A small inexpensive humidifier is not usually included in these bundles but really should be. In extremely dry climates (a sustained humidity of  below 40%), acoustic guitars can easily dry out and warp. Many guitars have been completely and irreversibly ruined this way. These simple humidifiers are usually clipped over the sound hole when the guitar is in its case.

Consider buying a spare set of strings for the new guitar because the higher pitched ones break regularly. Over time all metal strings corrode and begin to sound lifeless and need to be replaced anyway.

A word  of caution about buying guitars for very tiny hands.

Young children, under 10 or 12 may be too small for a full sized guitar. Guitars are also available in a ¾ size and ½ size. To help a beginner get over the initial awkwardness and discouragement of learning to play, it is important that the guitar both fits them and sounds as good as possible. Remember that the better the experience the more likely a young student will not quit.

The Most Important Guitar Accessory

One important gift idea is to purchase a complete and thorough guitar lesson dvd set. There are some amazing video courses out there that are taught by some of the top guitarist / teachers in the world. These is available for a fraction of the price of a randomly selected local instructor. The current generation of beginner guitar players is so accustomed to using computers, watching TV and recorded dvds that this method of learning can be a natural fit. Since not all guitar lesson dvds are crated equal consider checking with websites that compare guitar lessons.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/music-articles/guitar-gift-ideas-are-beginner-guitar-packages-worth-it-1552898.html

About the Author

Beginner Guitar Packages John Mackinnon has posted links to specific brands of bundled guitar packages and accessories listed in the article above. Also, to learn which Guitar lesson dvds are gems and which to avoid before you buy… Go to Video Guitar Lesson Reviews

The Various Alternative Guitar Tuning Options in a Guitar Tuner

Author: Muna wa Wanjiru

A guitar Tuner is an important tool for the Guitar. Note it is possible to tune up guitar in on or off mode. And it is possible to set the tunes them accordingly. It is possible to make some common alternative tunings with your guitar. Guitar Tuner has various alternative guitar tuning options. It is possible to tune to Standard, Drop D, Open C, Open G, Open G, Open D, Open G, Half step down, Full Step down, Open E or Admiral.

Let us learn how to tune a guitar. It should give some decent notes after tuning. Some basic guidelines can introduce you to guitar tuning basics. All the basic setting of the thickest to thinnest is as follows;

The 6th string that is thickest or the lowest is E. Whereas, 5th is A, 4th is D, 3rd is G, 2nd is B; E which is the thinnest or highest is the 1st. Most general tuning is carried out by Electric and Acoustic guitar.

Standard Guitar Tuning Method is as follows;

Step 1: The E String

Tune the bottom E, more precisely. As it is the thickest string there is no need to tune it always. If there is another instrument which need instrument like piano, it is possible to tune to it 1st E below middle C. Any way if you do not have such devices, is necessary to get accurate as possible. Here what actually matters while playing the Guitar it should be tuned simultaneously. Some time any other instrument you might be playing with.

Step2:

Put your first finger of left hand, it is just behind the fifth fret on the bottom. Here E String which an A note. Put your finger on the fret. Now pick the fifth and six strings in turn, it is necessary to gently adjusting the fifth string-tuning peg.

Step3:

Put the first finger of your left hand just behind the fifth fret on the A String. It is a D note. Now it is time to tune the 4th string to that.

While working on wooden guitar which give bit structure. As you tune up and vary the tension on one string. There is at the same times, which keep changing the tension on the string. It is therefore, a good idea to make several passes through the six strings. Make the tuning approximately on the first couple of passes and then when it becomes more detailed you can add exact passes to it.

Once just have to restrung your guitar, which used to grab the middle of each string and then give it a new some good hard yanks, straight up and away from the guitar. It is good to stretch them by right way rather than stretching them. Generally old guitar is flattened at that point they contact the fret wire, become dull, and produce distorted sounds. They are also difficult to tune.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/music-articles/the-various-alternative-guitar-tuning-options-in-a-guitar-tuner-332407.html

About the Author

Muna wa Wanjiru Has Been Researching and Reporting on Guitar for Years. For More Information on Guitar Tuner, Visit His Site at GUITAR TUNER

The Unspoken Mystery Behind Acoustic Guitar Strings

Author: Professor String

Fundamentally, acoustic guitar strings have been around longer than any other type of guitar string. They have evolved into one of the most critical components of the acoustic scene. Technology has taken the tone capabilities of the acoustic guitar string to new levels. There are many choices, sometimes leaving musicians confused at times. We are going to discuss one aspect of acoustic guitar strings in this writing…Metal.

It’s about metal…

What makes an acoustic guitar string different than electric guitar strings? Metal. Electric guitar strings utilize ferromagnetic metals, namely steel, to allow the pickup to sense it. Electric guitar pickups are based on variable reluctance technology. They rely on a magnetic field to be interrupted by a metal target (aka. Guitar string). The interruption is in the form of a vibration from the string. Acoustic guitar strings do not need ferromagnetic metals. Amplification is often not a focus of the acoustic guitar. Strings with clarity, brilliance and volume are preferred. The technology used to amplify an acoustic guitar does not rely upon strings having ferromagnetic properties. Transducing an acoustic guitar is more about picking up a signal via piezo effects, or sound pressure being picked up by a microphone. This opens up the door to a wider variety of string selections.

There are many different flavors that acoustic guitar strings come in these days. A series of alloys exist at the most basic level. Interestingly, I find players of all ages and experience who do not know the differences in string metals. Some have a rough idea, while some have no idea. Copper, zinc and tin are metals seldom discussed by guitarist. As soon as a number like 92/8 or 80/20 is mentioned in reference to alloy sets, bewilderment can start. If you are thinking, “Yeah, what the hell do those numbers mean to my tone?” You are about to find out. So, without further delay, here is a guided tour!

The Acoustic String Metal Guide

Bronze – Of all the strings manufactured, bronze has got to be the brightest and most articulate string available. There are no strings that are “pure” bronze, per say, but a mix of several different alloys including tin-phosphor, zinc and copper. The core is usually made of steel. Bronze strings can make virtually any acoustic guitar come alive with highly penetrating tone, versus their steel string counterparts. Bronze metal is known for its shimmer and brassy sound, but a deep rich low end can also be attained. Since string coatings have become popular, many of the previously highly corrosive bronze sets have become popular again. Uncoated bronze sets can lose their brilliance after a few hours of playing, as they can be highly corrosive. Many players used to use them for recording sessions for their short lived brassy sound. String coatings in general, have pumped new life into acoustic bronze sets. The brassy sound can last for many weeks, or months, without decaying.

80/20 Bronze – Here is one of those numbers we mentioned earlier. What does 80/20 mean? It is the ratio of copper to zinc in the wrap wire. The wrap wire is 80% copper while the other 20% is zinc. Since copper is highly corrosive, the zinc component helps slows down the aging process and adds additional hardness. However, since the advent of string coatings, the corrosion issue has all but disappeared as a primary concern. Although, poorly coated 80/20 strings, or strings with worn away coating will corrode. Tone wise, the 80/20 mix is excellent for creating a string that yields fantastic tonal range. The 80/20 strings are known for their brilliance and crisp highs. Uncoated versions of this string can lose brilliance after a few hours of playing sessions. In fact, this string has gotten a bad rap over the years for being “dead” sounding due to its high corrosion rate. Super old sets exposed to high humidity can turn light green from the copper content. Again, coating technologies have completely changed this factor.

85/15 Bronze – This string has a tonal spectrum in between an 80/20 bronze and a phosphor bronze string. It retains much of the brilliance found in an 80/20 bronze but captures the warmth and fullness of phosphor bronze strings. The 85/15 was the initial development of the more popular 80/20. However, 85/15 still remains a popular choice for finger style playing. It helps add volume to finger style articulation and give clarity similar to a plectrum.

Phosphor Bronze – The phosphor bronze strings were developed to have a longer lasting life cycle. In other words, the phosphorus content helped preserve the brilliant tone longer than the 80/20 and 80/15 bronze strings. Phosphor bronze strings are the darkest sounding of the bronze string family. They have about 75-80% the brilliance of a fresh set of 80/20 bronze. Phosphor adds a warm pleasing tone that give a tonal softness not found in other strings. They tend to have a little less “pick noise” as a plectrum sweeps across the strings. In fact, some sets have been known to yield a soft “brushing” type of pick noise.

92/8 Phosphor Bronze – The 92/8 is a ratio represents a blend of 92% copper and 8% tin phosphide in the wrap wire. The 8% actually breakdown to a 7% tin and 1% phosphor composition. The tin phosphide helps preserve the tonal range over time. Again, since the advent of coatings, the role of phosphor in coated string is purely tone versus longevity.

Gold Plated – In an effort to prevent corrosion, some strings utilize a micro layer of gold plating on the wrap wire. The gold plating gives a less brighter sound than the non-plated 80/20 bronze string sets and non-plated phosphor bronze sets. The gold is often plated on 80/20 bronze wrap wire and phosphor bronze sets. The gold plating is a good alternative for players who feel the poly-resin coating on strings impact string performance.

Titanium – Acoustic string sets based on titanium compositions and cores have been cited for their corrosion resistance abilities. The non-ferromagnetic properties of titanium strings inherently put them in the acoustic class of strings. The tonal range of titanium is somewhere between steel and bronze sets with a very unique sounding clarity and richness. Titanium is a bit of an exotic metal and can be over thirty times the cost of stainless steel.

Stainless Steel – Stainless steel strings bring their own tonal uniqueness to the acoustic world. Their high tension requirements make them less friendly to acoustic designs, but still give exceptional performance. Steel give a much softer sound with less volume than their bronze counterparts. They make a good choice for the hard strumming, open style chord players. Players on a budget will appreciate their availability in low price points. In addition, their stainless properties give them good corrosion resistance.

Silk Steel – Don’t own a classical guitar? No problem. For players seeking the soft sound of classical guitar strings, silk steel strings deliver the classical tonal range. This string is constructed of a center wrap of silk with a steel winding. The combination of silk and steel bring a classical tone to finger-style players wanting to keep their traditional dreadnaught or concert auditorium acoustic guitar. Unlike classical strings, the silk steel strings come with a ball end to anchor in a bridge made for metal strings.

We have covered a lot of ground here. As you can see, there are a bunch of options for alloys in the acoustic string world. Hopefully, this overview has provided enough insight to let you know the differences between the various alloys.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/art-and-entertainment-articles/the-unspoken-mystery-behind-acoustic-guitar-strings-1350934.html

About the Author

Professor StringTM is a leading expert in the musical string business. He leads a development group that specializes in guitar and bass string research for musicians. You can visit their site at http://www.professorstring.com